Minor Restoration of Georgian Marquetry Side Table
Although my business is mainly directed to contemporary bespoke work and teaching I also
occasionally take on some restoration. Working on this piece was a real pleasure, occasionally pieces
come to the workshop that are a little more than the run of the mill and this piece was one of them.
It’s a Georgian semi elliptical consol table in sycamore, satinwood and mahogany attributed to the
Irish maker William Moore who was active from around 1785-1815. The highly decorated top
features a central patera with bell flower points. The cross banded border features scrolling foliage
and a box wood and rosewood stringing. Those who have been on my marquetry will recognise the
central patera as we make a full elliptical version of this motif.
The table had been cut down at some time. The ebony stringing on the legs went right to the foot.
Usually it would stop short, also the taper seemed a little out of proportion, indicating that the legs
probably had spade feet at one time.
The problems identified with the table were:
A marked bow in the top from front to back. This was particularly evident because the table
had a glass cover protecting the marquetry surface. This was raised about 10mm above the
surface in places by the bow in the top.
The screws holding to top to the apron had pulled out from the top so that they no longer
held the top securely
Some of the sycamore radiating segments had started to lift due to degradation of the
original glue.
The rosewood and boxwood edge stringing had been lost in places and was detaching in
others.
Some of the cross banding was ridged.
The top bow could have been corrected by cutting saw kerfs about three quarters of the way
through underneath at about 40mm intervals, clamping the top to a flat surface then gluing fillets
into the kerfs to stabilise them. However this is quite radical restoration work which would probably
have reduced the value of the piece. It was therefore decided to look for “conservation rather than
restoration”. The top would be left as it is, the glass top being dispensed with. Erring on the side of
conservation also meant leaving the ridged cross banding. To correct this would have required
removing and replacing the rosewood and box wood stringing, so it was decided to let sleeping dogs
lie.
So what did we do:
Re gluing the sycamore segments
One of the ways to date veneered furniture is through the thickness of the veneer. Modern veneers
are about 0.6mm or thinner. Usually the thicker the veneer the older the piece, because older
veneers will have been cut with more primitive equipment. On this piece the veneer was 1.5mm
thick. With thinner veneers it is sometimes possible to use an iron to melt the underlying glue (until
about 60 years ago most veneers will have been laid using animal glue which liquefies with heat) and
thus re-stick the veneer. With veneer of this age this is unlikely, partly because the thick veneer
makes it difficult to get enough heat to the glue without scorching the surface and also because the
glue is likely to have degraded with age.
Instead I gently lifted the loose veneer with a blade and small wooden wedge (1), not easy with stiff
thick veneers, and injected animal glue underneath (2). Then the piece was clamped or weighted
down till the glue had set (3). One of the problems with using a syringe with animal glue is that the
glue will tend to thicken as it cools in the syringe. To overcome this I placed the hinge in hot water,
the outer jacket of the glue pot was good for this.
1. 2.
3.
Repairing the rosewood and boxwood stringing.
Stringing is often used to protect the veneer at the delicate edges of tables where it can easily be
caught and chipped. The stinging on this piece had fulfilled this function for about 200 years but was
now starting to come away itself. Some parts were missing completely.
To remedy this I made up a small “stick” of inlay formed from gluing up layers of stringing. Stringing
can be bought from veneer suppliers in various thicknesses I was lucky to have some square section
1.8 mm stringing in boxwood and rosewood exactly the right width to match the existing inlay,
otherwise I would have had to cut some to size specially. The layers were glued up then cut obliquely
with a fine Japanese saw to create the angled “rope” effect of the original inlay (4).
The edge stringing was inspected and any loose sections removed, cleaned up and refitted. Areas
where the stringing was missing completely were cleaned up (5) and new inlay fitted and glued (6),
being held in place with masking tape (7). The sections were left overnight before surplus glue was
removed and the inlay cut back with a sharp chisel (8,9) and the final profile sanded smooth. It is
important to give the glue time to go off. If you cut the inlay back too soon it the glue may shrink
further taking it below the surrounding surface.
The new pieces where coloured in using spirit stain (golden oak) mixed with shellac and applied with
a fine brush (10,11).
4. 5.
6. 7.
8. 9.
10. 11.
Refitting the top.
The table apron was built up in a brick work structure and then shaped on the outside before
veneering. The brick work effect could still be seen on the inside. At intervals notches had been
chiselled out for screws to be drilled through to the top (12). This fitting had failed, the fixing screws
had pulled from their holes leaving over size holes that gave no grip.
The damaged holes could have been drilled out and filled with dowels then re-drilled and the screws
used again. However this would have meant the screws going into the end grain of the dowels, not a
very strong fixing. Also this form of fixing would not allow the top to move with hanging moisture
content.
The notched out areas provided a very neat recess on the inside of the apron. I decided to use this to
provide a new fixing method that would overcome these problems and also conform to our
“conservation over restoration” approach. I made up some “L” shaped wooden brackets that would
fit into the notched recesses (13). When these were screwed to the underside of the top they
effectively clamped the top down to the apron (14). I left the original screws still in their holes under
the new brackets.
12. 14.
Finally
Whilst working on this table it was interesting to see the vestiges of the original colours of the
veneers used in the marquetry. The stringing on the floral border had a green tint (15), as did the
bell flowers and central area of the partera (16). The berries on the floral border would originally had
been red. When this table left the makers workshop these colours would have been quite vivid and
striking. We are used to thinking that our ancestors lived with the brown furniture we inherited
from them when in fact their interiors were much more colourful than we think.
15. 16.
