KITCHEN CABINET
Installation Guide
[ 1 ] [ 2 ]
• Tools Required
• Layout and Planning the Installation
• Cabinet Installation Order
• Installing Cabinets Level
• Fastening Cabinets to the Wall
• Fastening Cabinets Together
• Installing Fillers
• Installing Trim
• Adjusting Hinges and Drawers
Additional tools that make the job easier:
• Small Table saw • Power Miter Saw • Laser Level • Stud Finder
LAYOUT AND PLANNING THE INSTALLATION
1. Take inventory of the cabinets as per the plan or order.
2. Find the high spot in the oor using a level as shown below.
3. Measure up the wall 34 ½� above the high spot and draw a level
line anywhere that base cabinets will be installed. (This means
that this line will measure greater than 34 ½� above the oor in
most places along the wall.)
4. Find and mark the studs. This can be done by trial and error of
driving a nail in the wall until you nd a stud or use an electronic
stud nder. Studs will usually be every 16�
center to center.
1
The instructions given here serve as a general guideline on how to install frameless cabinets in
a reasonably simple installation. Many cabinet designs and installations may be far more
complex and beyond the scope of these instructions and require a professional installer.
• Tools Required
• Layout and Planning the Installation
• Cabinet Installation Order
• Installing Cabinets Level
• Fastening Cabinets to the Wall
• Fastening Cabinets Together
• Installing Fillers
• Installing Trim
• Adjusting Hinges and Drawers
Warning: Kitchen installations typically involve gas, high voltage wiring, plumbing
and mechanical details like heating and AC vents. This guide only covers cabinet
installation. At a minimum, if you’re not well versed in these areas make sure that
all power is shut off to exposed wiring and gas valves are closed to gas supply lines.
• Tools Required
• Tape Measure • Pencil • 3 to 4 foot Level • 3/16" Drill Bit • Phillips Head Screwdriver •#2 Square Drive Bit*• Electric
Drill • Hammer • Wood Shims • Phillips Head Screw Gun • Handsaw • Chalk Line • Step Ladder • Extension Cord • Pry
Bar • Clamps • Carpenter’s Square • NOTE: If “C” clamps are used, protect material between finished case of the cabinet
and the clamp.
• Additional tools that make the job easier:
Small Table saw
•Power Miter Saw • Laser Level • Stud Finder
The instructions given here serve as a general guideline on how to install frameless cabinets in a
reasonably simple installation. Many cabinet designs and installations may be far more complex and
beyond the scope of these instructions and require a professional installer.
Warning: Kitchen installations typically involve gas, high voltage wiring, plumbing and
mechanical details like heating and AC vents. This guide only covers cabinet installation.
At a minimum, if you’re not well versed in these areas make sure that all power is shut off
to exposed wiring and gas valves are closed to gas supply lines.
TOOLS REQUIRED
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• 3 to 4 foot Level
• 3/16� Drill Bit
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• #2 Square Drive Bit
• Electric Drill
• Hammer
• Wood Shims
• Phillips Head Screw Gun
• Handsaw
• Chalk Line
• Step Ladder
• Extension Cord
• Pry Bar
• Clamps
• Carpenter’s Square
• NOTE: If “C” clamps are used,
protect material between n-
ished case of the cabinet
and the clamp.
2
• Layout and Planning the Installation
1. Take inventory of the cabinets as per the plan or order.
2. Find the high spot in the floor using a level as shown below.
3. Measure up the wall 34 ½” above the high spot and draw a level
line anywhere that base cabinets will be installed. (This means
that this line will measure greater than 34 ½” above the floor in
most places along the wall.)
4. Find and mark the studs. This can be done by trial and error of
driving a nail in the wall until you find a stud or use an electronic
stud finder. Studs will usually be every 16” center to center.
Place a mark
34 ½ up from
the high spot
in floor
2
• Layout and Planning the Installation
1. Take inventory of the cabinets as per the plan or order.
2. Find the high spot in the floor using a level as shown below.
3. Measure up the wall 34 ½” above the high spot and draw a level
line anywhere that base cabinets will be installed. (This means
that this line will measure greater than 34 ½” above the floor in
most places along the wall.)
4. Find and mark the studs. This can be done by trial and error of
driving a nail in the wall until you find a stud or use an electronic
stud finder. Studs will usually be every 16” center to center.
Place a mark
34 ½ up from
the high spot
in floor
2
• Layout and Planning the Installation
1. Take inventory of the cabinets as per the plan or order.
2. Find the high spot in the floor using a level as shown below.
3. Measure up the wall 34 ½” above the high spot and draw a level
line anywhere that base cabinets will be installed. (This means
that this line will measure greater than 34 ½” above the floor in
most places along the wall.)
4. Find and mark the studs. This can be done by trial and error of
driving a nail in the wall until you find a stud or use an electronic
stud finder. Studs will usually be every 16” center to center.
Place a mark
34 ½ up from
the high spot
in floor
2
• Layout and Planning the Installation
1. Take inventory of the cabinets as per the plan or order.
2. Find the high spot in the floor using a level as shown below.
3. Measure up the wall 34 ½” above the high spot and draw a level
line anywhere that base cabinets will be installed. (This means
that this line will measure greater than 34 ½” above the floor in
most places along the wall.)
4. Find and mark the studs. This can be done by trial and error of
driving a nail in the wall until you find a stud or use an electronic
stud finder. Studs will usually be every 16” center to center.
Place a mark
34 ½ up from
the high spot
in floor
Place a mark 34 ½�
up from the high
spot in oor
STEP 1:
Locate the highpoint on the oor
for a wall
1
STEP 2:
Locate the highpoint on the oor
for an adjacent wall
2
STEP 3:
Locate the highpoint on the oor
between two walls
3
[ 3 ] [ 4 ]
5. It is best when installing a larger kitchen to mark the cabinet positions and code (size) on the wall. Better to nd
out now if things aren’t going to t just right than after you’ve installed several cabinets.
6. Unbox the cabinets and be cau-
tious not to drag them across the
oor. Save some cardboard to
rest the cabinets on to prevent
damage to the cabinets and the
oor.
7. Remove all doors, drawers and
shelves, being careful to mark
them so that they go back on correct cabinets. Removing the doors can
be done without tools as the hinges are “clip-on”.
Removing Doors
Dovetail Drawers can be removed by pulling the drawer out until it stops. Then reach under the drawer box on
both sides just behind the drawer front. Pull the clips holding both of them simultaneously while lifting up on the
drawer box. Then slide the drawer out.
3
5. It is best when installing a larger kitchen to mark the cabinet positions and code (size) on the wall. Better to
find out now if things aren’t going to fit just right than after you’ve installed several cabinets.
6. Unbox the cabinets and be cautious not to drag them across the floor. Save some cardboard to rest the
cabinets on to prevent damage to the cabinets and the floor.
7. Remove all doors, drawers and shelves, being careful to mark them so that they go back on correct
cabinets. Removing the doors can be done without tools as the hinges are “clip-on”.
Removing drawer boxes are different depending on the type drawer.
Standard drawers can be removed by simply pulling the drawer out until it stops, then lift up the front of
the drawer and remove the drawer.
Dovetail drawers can be removed by pulling the drawer
out until it stops. Then reach under the drawer box on
both sides just behind the drawer front. Pull the clips
holding both of them simultaneously while lifting up on
the drawer box. Then slide the drawer out.
Dovetail drawer: Pull
both clips simultaneously
toward the outside of
drawer box to release
drawer
3
5. It is best when installing a larger kitchen to mark the cabinet positions and code (size) on the wall. Better to
find out now if things aren’t going to fit just right than after you’ve installed several cabinets.
6. Unbox the cabinets and be cautious not to drag them across the floor. Save some cardboard to rest the
cabinets on to prevent damage to the cabinets and the floor.
7. Remove all doors, drawers and shelves, being careful to mark them so that they go back on correct
cabinets. Removing the doors can be done without tools as the hinges are “clip-on”.
Removing drawer boxes are different depending on the type drawer.
Standard drawers can be removed by simply pulling the drawer out until it stops, then lift up the front of
the drawer and remove the drawer.
Dovetail drawers can be removed by pulling the drawer
out until it stops. Then reach under the drawer box on
both sides just behind the drawer front. Pull the clips
holding both of them simultaneously while lifting up on
the drawer box. Then slide the drawer out.
Dovetail drawer: Pull
both clips simultaneously
toward the outside of
drawer box to release
drawer
3
5. It is best when installing a larger kitchen to mark the cabinet positions and code (size) on the wall. Better to
find out now if things aren’t going to fit just right than after you’ve installed several cabinets.
6. Unbox the cabinets and be cautious not to drag them across the floor. Save some cardboard to rest the
cabinets on to prevent damage to the cabinets and the floor.
7. Remove all doors, drawers and shelves, being careful to mark them so that they go back on correct
cabinets. Removing the doors can be done without tools as the hinges are “clip-on”.
Removing drawer boxes are different depending on the type drawer.
Standard drawers can be removed by simply pulling the drawer out until it stops, then lift up the front of
the drawer and remove the drawer.
Dovetail drawers can be removed by pulling the drawer
out until it stops. Then reach under the drawer box on
both sides just behind the drawer front. Pull the clips
holding both of them simultaneously while lifting up on
the drawer box. Then slide the drawer out.
Dovetail drawer: Pull
both clips simultaneously
toward the outside of
drawer box to release
drawer
CABINET INSTALLATION ORDER
1. Determining the installation order of the cabinets
depends on the plan. As a general rule it is better to
start with wall cabinets in the corner and work out.
However, if you have “tall” cabinets, like a pantry or
oven cabinet in the plan, it is critical to make sure
that the tall cabinet is used to determine the top
alignment of wall cabinets.
INSTALLING CABINET LEVEL
1. Nearly every oor, in any house, will not be level and at. The illustrations below show an exaggerated view of
why leveling cabinets to the high point in the oor is critical.
2. Cabinets should be shimmed up from the oor level to the 34 ½� line with wood or composite shims.
!
'
Highpoint
Highpoint
4
• Cabinet Installation Order
1. Determining the installation order of the cabinets depends on the plan. As a general rule it is better to
start with wall cabinets in the corner and work out. However, if you have “tall” cabinets, like a pantry or
oven cabinet in the plan, it is critical to make sure that the tall cabinet is used to determine the top
alignment of wall cabinets.
• Installing Cabinets Level
1. Nearly every floor, in any house, will not be level and flat. The illustrations below show an exaggerated
view of why leveling cabinets to the high point in the floor is critical.
Wrong Right
2. Cabinets should be shimmed up from the floor level to the 34 ½” line with wood or composite shims.
3. Cabinets should also be shimmed out from the wall to maintain a straight line. Hampton Bay Designer
Series cabinets are designed to be a “frameless construction” which means when the cabinets are
screwed together they will be forced into a straight line regardless of how wavy or bowed the wall or
surface they’re fastened to may be.
Highpoi nt
Highpoint
Wrong Right
9
Hinge Removal and Reinstallation
To Rem ove a Mounted Hinge:
Push the Release Plunger in
from th e Back of the Hinge
The Hinge W ill Disengage from the
M ounting Plate
H in ge
M oun tin g
Plate
Re lease
Plung er
To R em ount a H inge:
Align and Insert the
Hinge H ooks into the Front
of t h e M ounting Plate
Push th e Back of the Hinge into the
Plate U ntil it Clicks
H in ge
Hoo ks
• Adjusting Doors and Drawers
Hinge Adjustment
Door Adjustments
Up and Down
Adjustment
Side to Side
Adjust ment
In and Out
Adj ustment
Open Door
View
Out of Alignment
Condition
Alignment Condition
Correct ed
[ 5 ] [ 6 ]
3. Cabinets should also be shimmed out from the wall to maintain a straight line. Hampton Bay Designer Series
cabinets are designed to be a “frameless construction” which means when the cabinets are screwed together
they will be forced into a straight line regardless of how wavy or bowed the wall or surface they’re fastened to
may be.
FASTENING CABINETS TO THE WALL
1. Screw wall cabinets and tall cabinets to the predetermined height through the back panel into a stud. Make
sure to place screws 1� below the top and 1� above the bottom. Measure and mark the stud location on the
cabinet before drilling. Use #8 x 2-1/2� at head screws when fastening through a single layer of drywall into
wood studs.
2. Place a screw at the
top of the cabinet
and the bottom of a
cabinet in as many
studs as can be locat-
ed in the cabinet
width.
FASTENING CABINETS TOGETHER
1. Align cabinet frames together
carefully.
2. Cabinet cases can be clamped to-
gether using various kinds of clamps,
however use caution with any kind
of steel clamp to not damage the
surface material of the cabinet.
3. Screw cabinets together with
#7 x 1-1/8� at head screws.
INSTALLING FILLERS
1. Cabinets come is 3� increments in width, therefore llers will
be required when cabinets are to t between walls.
2. Measure the space between the wall and the cabinet at the
top, middle and bottom. If the dimensions are close to the
same you can rip (saw) the ller in a straight line to the proper
width to t.
3. Next, predrill holes for 1 ¼� screws and screw the llers from
the inside of the cabinet.
4. In a case where the wall is not plumb, the ller will have to be
cut to t to the uneven wall.
Place screws
1� below
the inside
top of
cabinet
Place screws
1� above
the inside
bottom of
cabinet
6
• Fastening Cabinets Together
1. Align cabinet frames together carefully.
2. Cabinet cases can be clamped together using various kinds of clamps, however use caution
with any kind of steel clamp to not damage the surface material of the cabinet.
3. Screw cabinets together with #7 x 1-1/8” flat head screws.
• Installing fillers
1. Cabinets come is 3” increments in width, therefore fillers will be required when cabinets are to fit
between walls.
2. Measure the space between the wall and the cabinet at the top, middle and bottom. If the dimensions
are close to the same you can rip (saw) the filler in a straight line to the
proper width to fit.
3. Next, predrill holes for 1
¼” screws and screw the fillers
from the inside of the cabinet.
4. In a case where the wall is
not plumb, the filler will have to be
cut to fit to the uneven wall.
3”
2 ¾”
¾””
2 ½”
1/2”
¾””
6
• Fastening Cabinets Together
1. Align cabinet frames together carefully.
2. Cabinet cases can be clamped together using various kinds of clamps, however use caution
with any kind of steel clamp to not damage the surface material of the cabinet.
3. Screw cabinets together with #7 x 1-1/8” flat head screws.
• Installing fillers
1. Cabinets come is 3” increments in width, therefore fillers will be required when cabinets are to fit
between walls.
2. Measure the space between the wall and the cabinet at the top, middle and bottom. If the dimensions
are close to the same you can rip (saw) the filler in a straight line to the
proper width to fit.
3. Next, predrill holes for 1
¼” screws and screw the fillers
from the inside of the cabinet.
4. In a case where the wall is
not plumb, the filler will have to be
cut to fit to the uneven wall.
3”
2 ¾”
¾””
2 ½”
1/2”
¾””
6
• Fastening Cabinets Together
1. Align cabinet frames together carefully.
2. Cabinet cases can be clamped together using various kinds of clamps, however use caution
with any kind of steel clamp to not damage the surface material of the cabinet.
3. Screw cabinets together with #7 x 1-1/8” flat head screws.
• Installing fillers
1. Cabinets come is 3” increments in width, therefore fillers will be required when cabinets are to fit
between walls.
2. Measure the space between the wall and the cabinet at the top, middle and bottom. If the dimensions
are close to the same you can rip (saw) the filler in a straight line to the
proper width to fit.
3. Next, predrill holes for 1
¼” screws and screw the fillers
from the inside of the cabinet.
4. In a case where the wall is
not plumb, the filler will have to be
cut to fit to the uneven wall.
3”
2 ¾”
¾””
2 ½”
1/2”
¾””
6
• Fastening Cabinets Together
1. Align cabinet frames together carefully.
2. Cabinet cases can be clamped together using various kinds of clamps, however use caution
with any kind of steel clamp to not damage the surface material of the cabinet.
3. Screw cabinets together with #7 x 1-1/8” flat head screws.
• Installing fillers
1. Cabinets come is 3” increments in width, therefore fillers will be required when cabinets are to fit
between walls.
2. Measure the space between the wall and the cabinet at the top, middle and bottom. If the dimensions
are close to the same you can rip (saw) the filler in a straight line to the
proper width to fit.
3. Next, predrill holes for 1
¼” screws and screw the fillers
from the inside of the cabinet.
4. In a case where the wall is
not plumb, the filler will have to be
cut to fit to the uneven wall.
3”
2 ¾”
¾””
2 ½”
1/2”
¾””
6
• Fastening Cabinets Together
1. Align cabinet frames together carefully.
2. Cabinet cases can be clamped together using various kinds of clamps, however use caution
with any kind of steel clamp to not damage the surface material of the cabinet.
3. Screw cabinets together with #7 x 1-1/8” flat head screws.
• Installing fillers
1. Cabinets come is 3” increments in width, therefore fillers will be required when cabinets are to fit
between walls.
2. Measure the space between the wall and the cabinet at the top, middle and bottom. If the dimensions
are close to the same you can rip (saw) the filler in a straight line to the
proper width to fit.
3. Next, predrill holes for 1
¼” screws and screw the fillers
from the inside of the cabinet.
4. In a case where the wall is
not plumb, the filler will have to be
cut to fit to the uneven wall.
3”
2 ¾”
¾””
2 ½”
1/2”
¾””
6
• Fastening Cabinets Together
1. Align cabinet frames together carefully.
2. Cabinet cases can be clamped together using various kinds of clamps, however use caution
with any kind of steel clamp to not damage the surface material of the cabinet.
3. Screw cabinets together with #7 x 1-1/8” flat head screws.
• Installing fillers
1. Cabinets come is 3” increments in width, therefore fillers will be required when cabinets are to fit
between walls.
3”
2 ¾”
¾””
2 ½”
1/2”
¾””
5
Wrong
Right
• Fastening Cabinets to the Wall
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
cabinet
Right
5
Wrong
Right
• Fastening Cabinets to the Wall
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
cabinet
Wrong
CORRECTING FOR A “BOWED IN” OR “BELLIED” WALL CONDITION
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
5
Wrong
Right
• Fastening Cabinets to the Wall
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
cabinet
5
Wrong
Right
• Fastening Cabinets to the Wall
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
W3036
W3036 W3036
W3036
W3036
W3036
Correcting for a “Bowed In” or “Bellied” Wall Condition
Boxes are at an angle
to each other
Box faces are
not aligned
Proper shimming will allow cabinet boxes to be aligned along a flat plane
and the door facia to be adjusted within acceptable tolerances
cabinet
[ 7 ] [ 8 ]
To Rem ove a M ounted H inge:
Push the Release Plunger
in from the Back of the H inge
The H inge W ill D isengage
from the M ounting Plate
Hinge
Mounting
Plat e
Release
Plunger
To R em ount a H inge:
Align and Insert t he
Hinge Hooks into the Front
of the Mounting Plate
Push the Back of the Hinge into the
Plate Until it Clicks
Hinge
Hooks
'
'
'
'
Up and Down
Adjustment
Side to Side
Adjustment
In and Out
Adjustment
Open Door
View
Out of Alignment
Condition
Alignment Condition
Corrected
INSTALLING TRIM
1. Installing crown molding can be accomplished in a variety of ways depending on the application. Using “frame-
less cabinets” means that a sub-crown molding will always have to be screwed to the top of the cabinet case to
attach the crown molding to.
LIGHT RAIL
In the same way, installing light rail will have to be screwed to the bottom of the case.
Light Rail Screw Placement Light Rail Placement Examples - AMLR1
ADJUSTING DOORS AND DRAWERS
Hinge Adjustment
7
• Installing Trim
1. Installing crown molding can be accomplished in a variety of ways depending on the application. Using
“frameless cabinets” means that a sub-crown molding will always have to be screwed to the top of the
cabinet case to attach the crown molding to.
AT S M a s S u b C ro w n - C ro w n S p a n s to C e ilin gAT S M b y Its e lf a s To p s c rib e
1/4”
1/4 ”
1/4 ”
5/8”
Sub Crow n
Revea l
2-1/8 ”+
1”
Scribe
to Ceiling
AT S M a s S u b C ro w n
gnilieCgnilieC
A B U P B 5 8 a s S u b C ro w n A M L R 2 a s S u b C ro w n
A M C 2 B y Its e lf
Varia b le
Sub Crow n Revea l
Variab le
Y!
1/4”
1/4 ”
1/4 ”
5/8”
Sub Crow n
Reveal
Variable
Sub Crow n
Reveal
2-1/8”+
1”
Scrib e
to Ceiling
gnilieC
gnilieC
Variab le
Filler by Itself asTopscribe
Y!
1/4”
1/4 ”
1/4 ”
5/8”
Sub Crow n
Reveal
Variable
Sub Crow n
Reveal
2-1/8”+
1”
Scrib e
to Ceiling
gnilieC
gnilieC
Variab le
Filler as Sub Crown -
Crown Spans to Ceiling
Y!
1/4”
1/4 ”
1/4 ”
5/8”
Sub Crow n
Reveal
Variable
Sub Crow n
Reveal
2-1/8”+
1”
Scrib e
to Ceiling
gnilieCgnilieC
Variab le
Filler as Sub Crown
Y!
1/4”
1/4 ”
1/4 ”
5/8”
Sub Crow n
Reveal
Variable
Sub Crow n
Reveal
2-1/8”+
1”
Scrib e
to Ceiling
gnilieCgnilieC
Variab le
Filler as Sub Crown
Y!
1/4”
1/4 ”
1/4 ”
5/8”
Sub Crow n
Reveal
Variable
Sub Crow n
Reveal
2-1/8”+
1”
Scrib e
to Ceiling
gnilieCgnilieC
Variab le
AMLR1 as Sub Crown
Alternate Congurations:
8
Light Rail In the same way, installing light rail will have to be screwed to the bottom of the case.
Side View
Front View
3/8”Overhang
to Front
Light Rail Placement Examples AMLR2 and AMLR 5
Side View
Front View
1/8”Overhang
to Front
Flush
to Side
Flush
to Side
Side View Front View
Z!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
SideView
Front View
3/8”Overhang
to Front
! "#$%&' "( ) (' *+, +- %. / ' , 0(+1 23 ! &4 ' - 5 23 ! & 6
SideView
Front View
1/8”Overhang
to Front
Flush
to Side
Flush
to Side
AMLR1
Light Rail
[ 9 ] [ 10 ]
ADJUSTING DOORS AND DRAWERS (continued)
Hinge Removal and Reinstallation
DRAWER ADJUSTMENT DOORS AND DRAWERS
Dovetail Drawer Adjustment
To Adjust the dovetail drawer for alignment, roll the orange adjustment wheel on the under side of the drawer
back and forth to raise and lower the left and right side of the drawer.
To Rem ove a M ounted H inge:
Push the Release Plunger
in from the Back of the H inge
The H inge W ill D isengage
from the M ounting Plate
Hinge
Mounting
Plat e
Release
Plunger
To R em ount a H inge:
Align and Insert t he
Hinge Hooks into the Front
of the Mounting Plate
Push the Back of the Hinge into the
Plate Until it Clicks
Hinge
Hooks
'
'
'
'
Up and Down
Adjustment
Side to Side
Adjustment
In and Out
Adjustment
Open Door
View
Out of Alignment
Condition
Alignment Condition
Corrected
9
Hinge Rem oval and Reinstallation
To Rem ove a M ounted Hinge:
Push the Release Plunger in
from the Back o f the H inge
The Hinge Will D isengage from the
M ounting Plate
H inge
M o unting
Plate
Release
Plu nger
To Rem ount a H inge:
Align and Insert the
Hinge Hooks into the Front
of the M ounti ng Plate
Push the Back of the H inge into the
Plat e Until it C licks
H inge
Hoo ks
• Adjusting Doors and Drawers
Hinge Adjustment
Door Adjustments
Up and Down
Adjustment
Side to Side
Adjustment
In and Out
Adjustment
Open Door
View
Out of Alignment
Condition
Alignment Condition
Corrected
Limited Lifetime Warranty
___________________________________________
This warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship in your Hampton Bay Designer Series Kitchen products under
normal home use. This warranty is offered only to the original residential consumer purchaser (“the Consumer”) and may not
be transferred.
WHAT THIS WARRANTY COVERS: American Woodmark Corporation (“AWC”), the manufacturer of these Hampton Bay
Designer Series products, warrants its parts and products to be free of defects in materials and workmanship from the orig-
inal date of purchase under normal home use. This warranty is offered to the original residential consumer purchaser only
and may not be transferred.
HOW LONG THE WARRANTY LASTS: The coverage of this warranty lasts for the lifetime of the original purchaser, so long
as he or she owns the home in which the product was rst installed.
WARRANTOR:
American Woodmark Corporation
561 Shady Elm Road
Winchester, VA 22602
(800) 230-5661
HamptonBayKitchens.com
WHAT AMERICAN WOODMARK WILL DO UNDER THE WARRANTY: During the warranty period, AWC, at its option,
will repair or replace any part or product that proves to have substantial defects in materials or workmanship, or AWC will
provide an equivalent replacement product, at no cost to the Consumer. AWC reserves the right to change specications in
design and materials without notice and with no obligation to retrot products we previously manufactured.
DUTIES OF THE CONSUMER: If you purchased Hampton Bay Designer Series cabinetry and need a replacement part
or would like to le a warranty claim, IMMEDIATELY NOTIFY AWC BY E-MAIL ([email protected]) OR
TELEPHONE (800-230-5661) OF THE ISSUE. You must provide a copy of the original sales receipt from
your purchase.
HAND CARVING, WOOD, AGING AND PRINTING LIMITATIONS: Because of the varying natural characteristics of wood
and the effects of aging, product shown in displays and/or printed materials will not be an exact match to new cabinetry you
will receive. Depending on the wood characteristics, the age of a sample and the environment of the showroom, samples will
show some degree of variation from new product. In addition, you should not expect all doors, drawer fronts, trim or molding
to match exactly in either nish or grain. Variation in wood is normal and unavoidable. In addition, it is not possible to match
our colors exactly in printed materials. Therefore, you should view the actual samples when making your color selection.
Slight variation in size and design is also characteristic of individually hand-carved items. This variation can occur from carv-
ing to carving, which only adds to their uniqueness and beauty.
LIMITATIONS AND EXCLUSIONS: This warranty does not cover defects or damage which result from commercial use,
improper transportation, improper installation, use of unauthorized parts, mishandling, misuse, abuse, neglect, abnormal
use, improper maintenance, non-AWC repairs, accidents, impact, or acts of God, such as hurricanes, re, earthquakes or
oods, normal wear and tear, alterations, environmental conditions, humidity absorption, or mold. This warranty, and any
applicable implied warranties, does not cover incidental or consequential damages arising from any defects in the product,
such as labor charges for installation or removal of the product or any associated products. In addition, variations in hand
carved items, wood grain, nish color, aging or other natural wood and stain characteristics are not considered defects and
are not covered by this warranty.
DISCLAIMERS AND RIGHTS: AWC disclaims any implied warranty of merchantability, and there are no express warran-
ties other than those set forth herein. ANY WARRANTY IMPLIED BY STATE LAW (WHETHER OF MERCHANTABILITY
OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR USE OR OTHERWISE) SHALL BE EFFECTIVE FOR ANY PRODUCT ONLY FOR THE
DURATION OF THE APPLICABLE LIMITED WARRANTY PERIOD LISTED ABOVE. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE
EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR
EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND YOU MAY ALSO
HAVE OTHER RIGHTS THAT VARY FROM STATE TO STATE
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